Making a new folk costume bodice

 Unfortunately both bodices that I made for my folk costume have shrunk in the closet ;)

This summer I inserted panels at the side of my newest bodice, to be able to wear it for midsummer. But since most of my weight is gained in front this isn't optimal. But it was wearable

I am also wearing a new silk kerchief, and a new reproduction cotton print apron. Both these were found at charity shops. I have also made a new linsey wolsey skirt in green, which is  avery popular colour in theprobate inventories from this time and place that I have been working on the last two years.

Anyway, while I can wear the dark blue bodice there is no way I can fit into my old checked one. And I like the checked ones better.

The original for my old checked bodice, called "Viste"

Since the fabric for both bodices and skirta have to be hand woven, and I don't weave, I am lucky that there is some of the  fabric for the other variant of the checked bodice than the one that I already have available.

This one I can buy fabric for, it is the bodice variant called "Åse"

When I did my first bodice I mainly enlarged the original. Now I have both changed shape and become better at pattern making, so for the new one I will adapt it more to my large bust. The other one worked, and looked good, but since my weight gain isn't symmetrical it will look better if I add more in the front.

So after my first preliminary mock-up from a sturdy polycotton twill. Then I also made a wearable mock-up, intended to be worn as an example of popular dress in the period, if not part of the actual costume. For this I used a hand woven half linen, and a piece of rust coloured wool twill, both thrifted.

I sewed most of it on machine, though none is visible on either outside or inside now that it is finished. 

There are some smaller things that I will change when I make the real thing, but I am happy enough to use it as a pattern for the new bodice. 

The "real" one will be made from much stiffer fabric, and have more boning - the embroiderycontaisn boning channels.

The Viste bodice was lined with unbleached linen, but the Åse one is lined with a striped fabric. I am not going to look around for hand woven linen for this, but will use a thrifted striped cotton.

To make the birght colours a little duller I soaked the cotton fabric over night in strong tea. Not as dark as the original, which had black as groudn colour, but good enough for me.

I have cut out the lining now, so that I can place the pieces on the hand wocen fabric on Wednesday when I go to Nossebro and will be able to buy tthe fabric.