fredag 25 september 2015

Finished skirt and better images of me in the wams

So, since I hand sewed a woolen skirt this week I now have a finished outfit based on two patterns from the Enns manuscript in Drei Schnittbücher. I've been fond of the style found in Central and Northern Europe in the second part of the 16th century forever, so this really is the book for me.

Instead of giving the skirt its own page I remade the wams page to include the whole oufit. New pictures and new info on costruction and inspiration.

tisdag 22 september 2015

The bodice is finished, and a new 16th century skirt

Last week I finished the bodice. I am not totally happy with it since I think that it's too short in front and mid back. In the sides it reaches the natural waist perfectly.

Still, the profile is right. I have, however, adjusted the pattern and will make another one, which is longer in front and mid back, with the side seems a little more forward and the straps a little bit further out. I haven't decide which fabric to use yet, so while thinking of that I decided to start on the skirt pattern from Drei Schnittbücher . The Enns master Tailor book which I got the pattern for my doublet from also has a pattern for a skirt to be worn with it.

I just have to decide on the fabric. This is what I want to make: a striped skirt, rather narrow. It's a watercolour by Lucas de Heere from 1575, showing women from Saxony.

But we'll see waht I kind find in my fabric stash, maybe it will be a solid skirt with trim along the hem, as the pattern shows instead.

torsdag 17 september 2015

One down, one to go

So, today I finished the first of my Eleonora di Toledo stockings. So now we have to wait and see if I get afflicted by the SSS - Second Sock Syndrome.

Three rather similar photos:

Any knitting will have ot wait until after the weekend though, since I'm going to Florence for a conference on Early Modern costume tomorrow and I travel with caryy-on luggage only, which makes it impossible to bring metal knittign needles. And no, the don't make  size 1,5mm/000 needles in bamboo or wood.

BUT, since the conference is in Florence, I hope to get to see the originals!

måndag 14 september 2015

Images of people in 17th century Sweden

Lorenzo Magalotti was an Italian philosopher, diplomat, author and poet who in 1674 was sent on a mission to Sweden by Cosimo III, Great Duke of Florence. His impressions of Sweden, Notizie di Svezia, which is kept as a manuscript in Florence was translated to Swedish and printed in 1912.

He did not only write, but also made drawings from his travels (Sweden wasn't the only one) and the "book" on Sweden has 21 such. This one, from Wikimedia Commons, show a sauna with bath attendants.

And all these images can be seen on Uppsala University Library's web site, here.

onsdag 9 september 2015

A 16th century bodice

Generally I adhere to the belief that most women's clothes were sewn together at the waist in the 16th century - not a separate bodice and skirt - all preserved garments indicate that this was the case.  However, there are also enough sources from the German or German-influenced parts of Europe that show or suggest that sometimes women wore outfits with a separate bodice and skirt.

One is the painting of washing women in the Harley manuscript of the alchemical text Splendor Solis, dated to 1582, and made in Germany. Here you see a woman in a black bodice with a blue skirt.

British Library

The Austrian tailor's books recently published in Drei Schnittbücher. Three Austrian Master Tailor Books from the 16th Century, by Marion McNealy and Katherine Barich (available here) reinforces this by giving patterns for skirts as well as whole gowns. With these skirts a wams, like the one I recently made, was worn, but the image above suggests that sometimes also a sleeveless bodice could be worn with a separate skirt. 

Going through some Danish 16th century probate inventories I did find sleeveless kirtles and kirtles with half sleeves, but unfortunately no bodiuces. On the other hand: it was a small sample.

Outside the German areas there is also at least one English image showing lower class women in a separate bodice and skirt, from the painting Fete at Berdmondsey, by Joris Hoefnagel, painted ca 1569 (link to wikimedia).

There must be more of them, but this is enough for me to decide that I can make a separate bodice to wear with a separate skirt. I will probably mostly wear it as a support layer when I'm wearing a wams/doublet too.

 I didn't want to make a corset, I have those, though none that currently fits me - working on that - what I wanted a bodice that would give a good, German type, curvy silhouette, while still being supportive and shaping. Since the bodice of my folk costume by far is the best example that I have of that I decided to use a modifed version of that pattern. 

The folk costume's bodice is from c. 1800 and has a very narrow back piece, which is typical of the period. Since the side seams had started to migrate backwards in the 16th century, but not that far I made the back pieces slightly bigger, an the front pieces smaller. I also added som in the front, because I am fatter now than when I made that bodice, even if I can still wear it, and I made it just slightly longer.

My late 16th century Swedish peasant outfit was also based on the folk costume pattern. And I do love it. I should add, that this pattern does not give a very wide neckline, as seen in most period artwork, but since I have too narrow shoulders for my bust width (and rib cage and waist) it works well for me.

lördag 5 september 2015

A gardecorps for Maja

My daughter maja needed som warm medieval clothing, so I made her a gardecorps from wool that I got from my friend Anna.

More information and a pattern drawing can be found here.

onsdag 2 september 2015

Glorious 1880s fashion plates

This post you can really thank my old Internet friend Green Martha for (from the time over ten years ago when all the costumers were on LiveJournal). This is her blog,
Unlike me she isn't afraid of the 18th and 19th centurirs and right now she's pinning a lot of wonderful images on Pinterest.

If ever did 1880s costumes, it would be something along these lines:

I have a hard time resisting the combination of this blue colour and dark red. 
And the draping is exquisite:

I can't make up my mind if I like the blue or red sailor suit best:

The buttons! The colours. But the green and pink gown is equally wonderful:

The golden brown and light blue speak to me. And the historicising sleeves:

Such green and pink prettiness!:

Hussar style - need I say more?

 And checks - I love checks!

More military style ornaments - lovely!

I don't know why, but the pink dress appeals a lot to me.

Gods! Can two outfits be more perfect? I am especially fond of the checked one of course.

And look at the stripes! And the hat!