Diagonal stripes like it's 1336



When I was a child my mother had (and still has) a series of books called "Husmoderns lexikon", i.e "The Housewife's lexicon". In it it was a chapter on the history of fashion. The drawing were very 1950s (I will take aphoto of them when I visit, if they are unpacked), but one of them was labelled 14th century, and striped diagonally in pink and purple. When I started makign medieval clothes in 1993, I assumed that this was more fantasy than reality. This was before we had internet access to art, and we relied on costume books and art books.

But I found it around ten years ago, when I first got obsessed with Italian 14th century. It is a fresco by Buonamico Buffalmacco (also known as Buonamico di Martino), a Floretine painter, in the Camposanto Monumentale in Pisa. It is thought to be painted sometime before 1336, and shows the Last Judgement.

And here is the gown:


It may be decay of colours, or restoration, but if you look at the sleeves of the kirtle/undergown they appear to be of different colours, so maybe a mi-parti undergown? I haven't amde the undergown yet, because I don't have any fitting fabric, and no money right now to shop for any, but I will keep my eyes open.

More phots, because I can:

The striped fabric is from Historiska rum, and I originally planned to make a more normal horisontal striped 14th century gown, but then I realised that because I am not more than 167 cem tall, it would be possible to make one cut on the bias to get diagonal stripes.

But since I knew that it was going to be a tight fit, I did something that I haven't done for decades: a  mock-up of the whole dress.



The drape of the wool fabric is beautiful, and even with a fulled wool bias cut affects it.

The gown is all hand sewn, with linen thread, and the trim is vintage metal and rayon. My modern eyes actually thinks that it looks better without the trim, but the original has it, so trim it is.

The crown is custom work from Eva Johanna Studios.






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