In the end I decided to line the pellote with thin wool, because I had it at home. Some reading about the tighter sayas from Las Huelgas showed that they were lined with "Anfalusian cloth", a term that isn't explained, but since they did make wool fabric in Spain (like everywhere else in the Old World) I decided that it was good enough for me. I am waiting for Vestiduras ricas: el Monasterio de las Huelgas y su época, 1170-1340 on Interlibrary loan.Here I am modelling it with my newest jersey dress. a christmas dress with holly, mistletoe and lingonberries on it.
Both to protect the fabric and because it looks nice I sewed a cord to the bottom hem.
Silk taffeta from puresilks.us, cord from the museum store at Göteborgs Remfabrik.