torsdag 6 december 2018

Behind the counters at "my" haberdasher

This movie shows how it looks behind in the inside of my favourite haberdasher her in Gothenburg: Knapp-Carlsson. Unfortunately I can't figure out how to embed it.

Link to movie on facebook

tisdag 27 november 2018

The quiliting has started

Since it requited me standing up for a longer while it was not until today that I got around to cutting the batting for my quilted 13th century aqueton - my Golden Egg challenge.

The cotton batting that I had bought was way too thick for the project, but also quite easy to take apart into layers.

First I cut the batting after the shape of the linen pieces, and then I pulled the layers apart.

I then pinned the second layer of linen on top of the batting. To secure it further I basted around all the edges, along the seams where the side gores are attached and from neck to hem in the middle. Helped by my trusted assistant Miss Esau (she's named after a cat in a Swedish comedy sketch, and we thought that we were going to have a boy cat again, but it works well for her too).

Then I removed to my couch and started quilting in front of the telly.

Apparently it is very tiring to help out.

söndag 25 november 2018

Saxon court gown

After trying all my old rayon brocade curtains with my teal cotton velvet to see which worked best together (and which I had enough of) I chose a cream damask. Unfotunately, while it was pretty, it was something about the combination that felt more modern pretty than period pretty.

While blue isn't the most common colour for an early 16th century German gown there are still many examples of blue gowns, so there I felt secure - I have written a blog post with lots of blue early 16th century German gowns. Most of these either have gold or red/pink borders, so I felt that the cream just needed something more to give it a more period look.

The woman to the left in this image from Das Sächsische Stammbuch by Lucas Cranach the Elder gave me the solution:

On both edges of her gold brocade borders there is a rose red ribbon/trim. You also find this on her sleeves and crisscrossed over her brustfleck.

So, having decided that I spent weeks trawling the internet for trim that wopuld look nice, but not cost an arm and a leg, since I would need over 25 metres of it. 
There was a deadline for this too, since I was going to have a rather big surgery done on the 15th of November, and would not be able to leave home to go shopping for over a month after that. I was beginning to despair. But then I remembered this trim from an earlier visit to Göteborgs Remfabrik, a factory museum that actually makes trim, on 19th century machines.

And now, 24 metres later, I have a skirt:

It is not attached to anything, I've only gathered it with a belt. On top of the thick medical corset/girdle thingie that I will have to wear day and night for three weeks after the surgery, and at lleast one more week during the day, to help my flesh bond with the titanium net that they put tehre to keep my intestines inside my diaphragm instead of outside.

It will probably take quite a while before I have any idea of how my waist, well, most of my torso, will look so I don't count on making the bodice before spring. But at least the skirt is finished. And it's not like I don't have a lot of other craft projects to work on.

I am very tired and can't sit up for long times, so hand sewign and some knitting is what I have been doing. The latter is, however, made more complicated by this little lady, who bites off my yarn.

She is now 13 weeks old.

We have also adopted another rescued kitten, who was born in teh wild, and is c. 16 weeks old. Shhe mostly hides in the bathroom, but has started to come out more and more, even when we are at home and awake.

tisdag 23 oktober 2018

A start on the aqueton

Well, apart from test quiliting and reading the only thing that happened this autumn with my version of the aqueton of St. Isabelle of France was that I bought the linen fabric and the cotton batting. Well, I also prewashed the fabric.

Btu I have been working so much and also travelling, for conferences, study visits and the SCA. But tonight, when I was too tired to try to work I actually cut out the linen pieces. This photo shows the main body pieces; there are also four gores, two at each side, which are triangles with the tops cut off.

måndag 15 oktober 2018

The Landsknecht cheerleader

At Drachenwald Crown Tourney I was the herald for sir Franz von Hohenklingen and his lovely wife Ida von Hohenklingen, who do early 16th century German. And for years I have promised him that I would be cheerleader if he ever fought in Crown.
So when it was announced two weeks before the event i started making a landsknecht cheerleader outfit. And pompoms. In the heraldic colours of sir Franz. The material is mainly polycotton from my father adn some remnants of purple cotton satin.

Photo by Ida Torp.

For preserved modesty I wore bike shorts under it.

I walked in wearing my long 16th century velvet robe, and only at the end of the boast that I had written for them I took it off and got my pompoms out of its pockets and started jumping and shouting.

I also heralded/boasted for Fru Margareta Arvidsson, fighting for Herr Erik Dalekarl. Fortunately they marched in before Franz and Ida so I looked reasonably normal when I heralded them.

söndag 30 september 2018

A costume of the Count Elector August of Saxony

Those of you who study 16th century clothing are probably aware of the yellow and black suit of the count Elector Moritz of Saxony  (Good photos of the costume here). It is exhibited at the Dresden Rüstkammer and has been published in a 2008 publication from the Abbegg Stiftung. The Abbegg stiftung (foundation) is this extremely cool organisation that collects and conserve textiles - from ancient to the 19th century. Their museum is well worth a visit and their publications are top class. It was sheer will power that stopped me from buying more than these three. And the risk of having to pay for overweight on the plane.

You can see that I bought the book with Moritz' clothing.

However, Moritz was not the only count elector whose black and gold clothing has been preserved in the Rüstkammer. While visting the Abbegg Stiftung in Riggisberg this week  for the Dressing the early Modern Network's conference A taste for the exotic, which was organized in collaboration with the Abbegg foundation, we had the opportunity to visit their conservation workshops to see some of their current projects. The one that interested me most was a costume that belonged to Moritz of Saxony's successor: August.

Painting by Lucas Cranach the Younger, c 1572. From wikipedia

Very reasonably we were not allowed to take photographs from the studio. There will be a publication on this costume in either 2019 or 2020, which will undoubtedly provide both excellent photos, patterns and construction details.

However, I did make some sketches and notes and when I got home I made some better sketches, with pencil, pen and water colour.

While the yellow dominates in the costume now, it would have been dominantly black when worn, being completely covered with the black, embroidered net. The exception is the bodice of the doublet, which would not have been seen when worn with the jerkin.

As these drawings are made from sketches, notes and memory there are omissions and possible misunderstandings and mistakes, but until we have the publication it at least gives an idea of the costume. Including the interesting fact that the stockings were stitched to the bottom of the trunk hose, which would made it so much easier for them to be nice and taut, without wrinkling.

lördag 15 september 2018

Now with trim

I have added trim to the neck and armscyes of my 1370s sleeveless gown and updated the page for that outfit in accordance with this. Here.