onsdag 15 maj 2019

A 16th century Venetian gown in the making

Those who follow this blog on facebook have probably seen that I have been working on a 16th century Venetian gown. That is actually one of the very few European fashions from the period 1000-1600 that I haven't made previously, but I always knew that I would make one some day.

Anyway, I soon realized that the shifts that I already have wouldn't work with it, since it's cut rather low in the back (and the front, but that's more common). So on Monday I started on a new, hand sewn shift. it is almost finished, but I needed to see where the neckline should be, so I had to try the gown on.

It is made from a cotton damask and the main purpose of this gown is to make something pretty that I can loll around drinking bubbly in. The sleeves are detachable, for decadent lounging on blankets at Double Wars.

My main inspiration for the sleeves was this painting from the 1550s, by a follower of Veronese:

When trying it on I found that I need to reinforce the lacing (it is laced through two rows of ribbon on the inside) and that the cord that I had used for lacing had gotten mysteriously much shorter - thanks to this lovely lady:

In other news I have an inflammation in my uterus (of all places) and I'm on two types of antibiotics and I feel really crappy.

måndag 13 maj 2019

Recreating blessed Isabelle de France’s auqueton

In the latest issue of The Dragon's Tale, the Kingdom newsletter of Drachenwald I have an article about my recreation of blessed Isabelle de France’s auqueton. For those of you who are not members of either Drachenwald, or SCA in general, who can access Dragon's Tale here, I have, with the permission of the chronicler, also put it on this blog (with slightly more pictures)

You can find the full information about the garment and its creation here.

onsdag 8 maj 2019

Not only clothing

Thee weeks ago I arranged a sewing meeting for my local SCA group: Gotvik. I have sewign meetings every other Thursday at my place, and has had them for over four years, but some people have trouble coming on a weekday, so we thought that a whole day of sewing would be a good idea. This time we weren't at my place, instead baroness Katarina and I brought our sewing machines to Studiefrämjandet, an educational association.

 I didn't have any personal sewing projects, but we had decided to make banners for Nordmark, the SCA principality that covers Sweden, and for the Kingdom of Drachenwald (Europe, plus Israel and South Africa), so that visiting royalties wouldn't have to bring banners. Especially since some of them are flying to events from abroad we thought that this might be a good idea.

The Nordmark banner is the easier one, so I started on that. I used cotton broadcloth instad of something fancier, the focus is in sturdyness rather than on historically correct.

The leaves, made from ochre yellow cotton broadcloth were afterwards painted with textile paint in gold colour. The fringe is from my stash.

måndag 1 april 2019

Premiere for my Saxon court gown

And I did leave my phone in my bedroom during the event, so there are very few photos of me in it.  I will make a web page for it eventually, when I'm not doing a hundred other things.

Photos by Marika Johansson

Selfie before court.

söndag 17 mars 2019

St.Egon's Feast

This weekend was one of Gotvik's two annual events: St.Egon's Feast (Egon is a fictive saint who protects us from foul peasants and rains of herring). I was busy having fun, and drinking wine, so I only have a few photos. But among these are the first photos of me wearing my coronet with medieval clothing and not a t-shirt :)

Next to me is my friend Amanda, wearing another one of my early 14th century Italian gowns.

This was the first time that I wore my 1330s Genuese gown to an event too. It is nice that the coronet is based on crowns seen in Italian art from this period, though I of course will wear it with clothes from other time periods too.

As I've said in other posts the coronet is made by Johanna Lawrence and it is not only pretty, but incrediby comfortable - I wore it for six hours and actually forgot that I was wearing it.

lördag 2 mars 2019

An exercise in anachronism - a box for my coronet

Since I now have my pretty, pretty coronet, I also want to protect it. The coronet is made in a medieval way, with pieces with hinges. The white enamelled flowers are the pins keeping it together.

coronet from Eva Johanna Arts&Craft
Etsy shop
Facebook page

So when travelling with it on a train or plane the separate pieces will be packed in small velvet pouches to protect them. But when I travel by car, or when I set up my tent and want everything to be pretty around me, I will use this box.

It looks a little bit like boiled leather, which is what mostly have been used in the Middle Ages, or leather combined with wood. But since I don't have easy access to leather or a good workshop for that kind of jobs it is a cardboard box covered with paper clay. Thus an exercise in anachronism. Luckily that is part of the Society for Creative Anachronism.

The inspiration for using paper clay I got from seeing my friend Agnes' amazing notebooks made with paper clay. She is really, really talented in many crafts: she's making amazing cakes, notebooks, fairy houses, posaments (viking style metal wire ornaments) and historical jewellery, and probably much more that I don't know off. You can see, and buy her stuff, in her Etsy store: By Hand and Paw.

To protect the coronet on the inside the whole box was padded with 2 cm thick foam rubber. Using a pair of scissors I hollowed out a groove in the bottom piece for the coronet, before covering it with fabric. The fabric is tacked down with thread in the hollow too. Then I glued the piece to the bottom of the box with PVA glue. The groove is (reasonably) centered, it is the photo that is a taken at an angle.

Then the sides were padded. Because of the angle of the coronet, I had to shave off some of the foam rubber at the top edge. Not so easy to get even with just scissors, but the fabric covers some of the unevenness. This was alos glued to the sides of the box.

Finally I added a smaller circle of foam rubber covered in fabric to the lid.

In the hollow inside the coronet I will probably keep a fabric bag with fake hair, hairnet, ribbons etc.

torsdag 21 februari 2019

My kirtle from Drei Schnittbücher taken in

Three years ago I made a kirtle based on one of the patterns in the Tailor's book of Enns, published by Marion McNealy and Katherine Barich in their book  Drei Schnittbücher.

It was now too big, and luckily I didn't take it in at my thinnest period, because then I wouldn't have been able to wear it again. Instead I took it in two weeks ago, and this week I finally got around to finsihing the lining again.

I'm home sick, so no really period background orheadwear, but here it is.

The old version.

söndag 17 februari 2019

And the shirt with Sir Måns in it

And this afternoon Måns came to pick up his shirt, he's leaving for Estrella in the US in a few days.

The last one makes me think of how the legend of the foundation of Gothenburg is usually depicted: Gustavus Adolphus II pointing and saying "There is where you shall build the town".

Photo by Eva Ekeblad, from Wikipedia.

Sir Måns' 16th century shirt

I have been very busy knitting my husband's 50 years' present, without him noticing, so there hasn't been much historical sewing lately. I made a 1940s dress for work two weeks ago - and I finished Sir Måns 16th century shirt. That it took so long for it to be finished wasn't my fault really, the embroidered cuffs and collar were, as you may remember,  finished in August, but I didn't have enough fabric for the body until January this year. As soon as he brought it to me, hand sewing the shirt was a piece of cake.

Bascially I'm using this pattern, based on the Warwick shirt (scroll down), which I have used since the early 2000s, though taken from a now dead site.

Anyway, here it is

Close-up of the collar and cuffs, while cosntructed:

And, for good measure, my husband's sweater:

onsdag 2 januari 2019

Costuming year in review 7 - Goals for 2019

While I have many ideas and plans there is only one of them that can be classified as a goal: To make a robe a la française. I started making one in 2003, and even finished the petticoat, trimming and all. The I got pregnant and since then I haven't really been interested in making one. It didn't help that I didn't get the pleats on the back to work at all. 

But last year there was this 18th century ball and I started working on a new pair of stays, having given away my previous ones. I also discovered that our old cat had scratched the petticoat so badly that I would have to make something new.
In the end I didn't go to the ball, since I got time for surgery and you don't go to a ball a week after you've had surgery on your foot. But there will be a ball this year too, so I think making a robe a la française is a good goal for this year, in addition to all the medieval and 16th century stuff that I want to make.

I am hoping that making a robe a la française for my doll Arabella will help me sort out the construction for the back too. That will have to wait, however, because I'm busy knitting a jumper on a deadline.

Arabella in her stays and panier.