lördag 23 september 2017

Green Italian ca 1480-1500 over gown

As I have mentioned before my rose pink Italian 15th century gown was really made just so that I coul have something to wear under historically inspired gown I made for my wedding; to make the outfit hsitorical and not just Pre-Raphaelite fantasy. Like the undergown it was of course too big now, so I had to take it in, and this is the result - som quick photos taken indoors.



This is how it looked when I wore it last time, before re-making, in 2012.


And at the wedding in 2003:




tisdag 19 september 2017

Today this arrived:

Costume, with my latest article! *bounce* bounce*



I also got a hat in the mail


It will probably be remade heavily.

fredag 8 september 2017

Some more photos of our directoire/empire costumes

Alfhild in front of the front gardens and entrance to the house.


Me by the secondary entrance and with the main gardens behind me.


A selfie of me and Anna





lördag 2 september 2017

The Empire picnic

Today I and some friends and new acquaintances had a picnic in our gowns from c 1800-1815, at a lovely summer villa outside Gothenburg, built in 1796: Gunnebo House.

First Anna, Sigrid and I went on the guided tour and then Gunilla, Alfhild, Vigdis and Ingela joined for the picnic.

Anna had worked hard the whole week, and stayed up sewing until five o'clock on Saturday morning, but her silk gown was finished in time, and very pretty. 



The bonnet/jockey cap was my birthday present to her, made from silk habotai.

Me, posing in my embroidered cotton gown, and a new silk bonnet that I made on Thursday and yesterday, and a velvet spencer also made this week.




The rest of the gang

From the left: Ingela, Vigdis, Alfhild, Gunilla, Anna, and me.








After the picnic Anna and I walked a couple of kilometres (in our stays, gowns and bonnets and everything) through the woods to a lake to take a swim.



The hair pins removed.


We also picked a few mushrooms.




fredag 1 september 2017

Checked gowns 1800-1815

I love checks. Especially tartans - in fact my -not-so-secret superpower is to spot tartan clothes and fabrics through other solid objects. But other checks are fine too.

So, as much as a help for myself as for others I decided to post my favourite fashion plates showing checked gowns from the period 1800-1815.

Costume Parisiens 1799-1800 (an 8)


The Italian fashion journal Corriere delle Dame 1808


Madras dress, Costume Parisien 1800-1801 (an 9)


From Journal Fur Fabrik Manufaktur, Handlung und mode, 1801.

put up by Europeana

English Afternoon dress 1801


English Morning dresses June 1802


Costume Parisien 1808

 Costume Parisien 1812


Costume Parisien 1814

Costume Parisien 1815



I am extremely grateful to the Flickr-account "Scene in the Past", which provides so many fashion plates from this period.


La Belle Assemblé: "Sea side bathing dress" from 1815. This dress was not used for actual bathing (the hat sghould be a giveaway), where people appear to have bathed in the nude, in shifts or in special bathing costumes made up of tunics and wide trousers.




Not a gown, but who can resist a checked spencer? Costume Parisien 1811


lördag 26 augusti 2017

And I have achieved...:

Tits on a platter!

But unlike 16th century costuming where this is something to avoid at all cost, this really is the way it should look around the year 1800.


A pair of late 18th century transitional stays

I have a tendency to get very enthusiastic about new thigns, so  what I did yesterday is not so strange: I started on a pair of late 18th century transitional stays. My friend Anna has chosen the very late 18th century as her period for our upcoming regency picnic which of course fueled my enthusiasm. Since I had already bought white thin cotton to make a round gown to be worn either seperately or with an open gown, the idea was there already. It was mainly the timing that was affected, since I had thought about making this later in the autumn.

Well, that was not to be: having run out of hand sewing projects that I could work on in the evenings - the embroidered smock I am making for my daughter Valeria requires good lighting and eyes that are not tired - I needed another project. I started with the skirt for the round gown, which will have two rows of very pretty coral pink silk tabby ribbon around the hem. I could not, however start on the bodice before I had decided whether to wear it with my slightly later regency stays, or make a new, late 18th century pair.

And yesterday I decided to go for it. I dug out some strong linen for the stays, my just a little bit too large effigy stays to have some idea of size, and an extremly sturdy polycotton twill that I use for mock-ups for stays.

I also looked around on the internet and found several useful blog posts to help me figure out what I wanted to do.

These were the ones I looked at the most:

Festive Attyre

Katherine's dress site

Rococo Atelier

Most of these mentioned the book Corsets by Jill Salen, and I have ordered it on ILL, but of course I couldn't wait for that to arrive. So by studying the pictures on Rococo Atelier, which showed both her version with cups, and the original pattern with a gusset I came up with a pattern that I tried with enough success to go on to cutting the linen.

I got as far as making all the lacing holes on one front piece yesterday, and the rest this morning, and I have now also sewn all the boning channels on machine. Yesterday I was sorely tempted to make it all by hand, but sense prevailed, I have lots of real life work and many other projects to work on.

Since I don't have any white bias tape at home, and I'm not that interested in making some I am now going to take a walk downtown and get it, as well as catch some pokemon.


fredag 18 augusti 2017

Bonnet mania

Those who know me know that I have a great enthusiasm for period headwear. Silly headwear especially, but any type really.

Since I've mostly done medieval and16th century clothing my obsessive love of bonnets is probably less known. But oh yes, I love bonnets. There is even one time period (1850s) where I have only made the underwear and the bonnet, and never got any further.

Some examples from fashion plates


The 1790s
Unfortunately there are few fashion plates from this period showing only bonnets - on the other hand, the gowns and redingotes are delightful too.




1800-1809

1800 and 1801:



1803-1805:



 

1806-1807:



1808-1809:







The 1810s 
The 1810s are probably my favourites - so much excess and silliness!

1810-1812:




 

1813-1815:






1816-1817:






Given this enthusiasm for bonnets it is not strange that I should have made another bonnet yesterday, in the style of the first decade of the 19th century, as you can see. The tank top is in the style of the early 21 st century ;)



I also lined my previously made straw bonnet, more in the style of the 1810s. Taking bonnet selfies is an art :)