tisdag 21 november 2017

The regency muslin dress is getting closer to completion

Allt it really needs now is sleeves. I am thinking about making short puff sleeves and separate long sleeves that can be attached to the short sleeves. There's one exampe of that in Patterns of fashion, and many more in images of the period.

Photos. With cat in box.

The ties in the back will be tucked in, and tied a little looser at the neck too. This is my first regency dress without a lining in the bodice, but the originals that I looked at for the pattern were all unlined.

måndag 20 november 2017

Sewing - a little bit of this and that

When trying on Valeria's camicia and gown I realized that they seams attaching the sleeves to the body of the camicia would be visible when she wore them together, and that this meant that I "had" to embroider over that seam too. I started a little while I was in Delft, and continued last week at home. One of the sides is now made and I have done about half on the other.

However, yesterday I got tired of embroidery, and started on a muslin gown from c. 1810. Since it's not all hand sewn (though there's enough of that too) it ought to be finished this week.

The skirt is sewn, and I have attached (by machine) the 7 metres of hand-hemmed ruffle at the hem. Now I need to make sleeves, and attach the skirt.

fredag 17 november 2017

A very few photos from Drachenwald Kingdom Unviersity

Last weekend was Drachenwald Kingdom University in Delft. I had a marvellous time with old and new friends, and my calss on same-sex sexuality in the Middle ages was well recieved. This is not somethign I do research on myself, but built on the scholarly literature of the subject - I will post a list of suggested reading later.

I wore my c. 1300 Italian silk gown with split sides during the day on Saturday and the shiny investiture outfit at court and feast. I have just one photo of me though, a selfie at that. I was too busy being in "the current middle ages" to take photos.

Mostly of the site, which is a couple of 17th century houses that used to b used for gunpowder storage back then.

Mistress Margaret de Mey and Fru Branna från Korpåsen

The weather was nice enough to sit outside for shorter periods, so I spent some time sitting by the canal, embroidering on Valeria's camica.

tisdag 7 november 2017

I finished the Eleonora di Toledo skirt

While the bodice has been finished since April it took a while to get around to finishing the skirt. Not only because that's  a lot of trim to sew down, because that was finished this summer, but partly because I didn't have the unbleached linen I wanted to use for lining, and mostly becuase I started worting on the embroidered camicia (see last post) again.

But now the skirt is lined and finished. This would have gone much quicker if I had simply baglined dit, but of course I wanted to do it the way the original was done - apart from the fact that it wasn't lined, but I do that top spare the silk satin of the train from the dirt of the floors at events.

First I sewed a wide strip of the silk satin, the lining and the top fabric together on machine and then I folded all the seam allowances up against the skirt and whip stitched them in place.

 I then folded the silk satin strip , making it stick out about 1, 25 cm/1/2 an inch from the edge, and sewed it in place by hand.

It does take time to round 5 metres of skirt twice ;)

The I pressed it, and started cutting the edge with scissors.


Since I probably have to take in the bodice a little I will have to wait for Valeria to come home so we can try it on, before I attach the skirt.

fredag 3 november 2017

And the 16th century embroidered camicia is ready to wear

Though I will make more embroidery, at least around the neckline, just not right now. I will take break from that and finish Valeria's white satin Eleonora di Toledo gown. After all the only part of the camicia that will be seen in public is the sleeves.

And she's at a party, so I'm posing in it.

Close-up of a cuff:

The inspiration:

söndag 8 oktober 2017

Festivalo de Caderas 2017

The second annual event of the barony of Gotvik took place this weekend. I missed Friday night because I went to see the Jesus and Mary Chain play, but thankt ot a friend with a car I arrived at the site at 10 am on Saturday morning.

It was a very nice and cosy event. The baron had organized a Pas d'armes, and despite there being few attendants this time it was great fun to watch and there will be a continuation of this, with a bigger Pas d'armes next year.

I have a few photos of me, wearing the period c 1250-1320, taken by fru Katarina Krognos and herr Peder. And also some photos of the fighting, taken by me.

The red c. 1300 gown.

It got cold to be outside, so I put on my embrodiered c. 1250 gown.

And for court and feast I wore my late 13th century Italian mi-parti gown and a wimple and veil striped with gold.

The pas d'armes was in honour of Gotvik's fictive patron saint Saint Egon, so of course his icon was there, along with banners and other pretty stuff.

Me and the baron. He's wearing his ca 1550s German waffenrock that I made for him for Estrella was this year.

I tied Gotvik pennants as baldrics for the defenders, here with Sir Franz von Hohenklingen.

Earl Wlfric, I love his 12th century fighting outfit. Note the very typical belt.

The swearing of the oath:


måndag 2 oktober 2017

One embroidered sleeve finished

I have now finished the embroidery on one of the sleeves for Valeria's 16th century Italian camicia. I have also sewn it on,  and sewn one side together, by hand, felled the seams and sewed a black and off white bobbin lace to the cuff and gatheered it.

The cut of the shift and embroidery pattern is taken from this preserved Italian camicia, now in the textile museum in Prato, Tuscany.

I am not sure if I will make embroidery along all the seams though, it's not like it will be seen. There will probably be some wider embroidery added around the neck though - even if that won't be seen often either.

fredag 29 september 2017

My directoire muslin gown is finished

And I managed to fix my hair and get dressed in 15 minutes, just to have some photos taken before rushing off to discuss tomorrow's big anti-nazi demo with some friends. Then it took three hours to crop the photos, try to get the colours rigth and find lots of documentation for the ribbons, the trim and the stuff I want to make next to wear with it.
All of that can be found here.

torsdag 28 september 2017

1790s progress

I've gotten enthusiastic about the embroidery on Valeria's camicia sleeves, so I haven't worked much on my white muslin dress. Add to that a really bad flare in my arthritis on Monday (fever, puking from pain etc), which fortunately has gotten better with the help of prednisolone and not much has happened with my white cotton muslin dress.

Yesterday hiwver, I attached the skirt by had while listening to an audio book and today I tried it on.

Ignore the shift, I just threw the nearest linen shift on and the neckline is both to high and too narrow.

And I will use a longer ribbon. And have sleeves, obviously. I have made those tonight, but not attached them yet. I tried it with the velvet spencer too, I think I will mostly wear it with something over it, my immediate plan is an oper robe from printed cotton.

But first sleeves.

lördag 23 september 2017

Green Italian ca 1480-1500 over gown

As I have mentioned before my rose pink Italian 15th century gown was really made just so that I coul have something to wear under historically inspired gown I made for my wedding; to make the outfit hsitorical and not just Pre-Raphaelite fantasy. Like the undergown it was of course too big now, so I had to take it in, and this is the result - som quick photos taken indoors.

This is how it looked when I wore it last time, before re-making, in 2012.

And at the wedding in 2003:

tisdag 19 september 2017

Today this arrived:

Costume, with my latest article! *bounce* bounce*

I also got a hat in the mail

It will probably be remade heavily.

fredag 8 september 2017

Some more photos of our directoire/empire costumes

Alfhild in front of the front gardens and entrance to the house.

Me by the secondary entrance and with the main gardens behind me.

A selfie of me and Anna

lördag 2 september 2017

The Empire picnic

Today I and some friends and new acquaintances had a picnic in our gowns from c 1800-1815, at a lovely summer villa outside Gothenburg, built in 1796: Gunnebo House.

First Anna, Sigrid and I went on the guided tour and then Gunilla, Alfhild, Vigdis and Ingela joined for the picnic.

Anna had worked hard the whole week, and stayed up sewing until five o'clock on Saturday morning, but her silk gown was finished in time, and very pretty. 

The bonnet/jockey cap was my birthday present to her, made from silk habotai.

Me, posing in my embroidered cotton gown, and a new silk bonnet that I made on Thursday and yesterday, and a velvet spencer also made this week.

The rest of the gang

From the left: Ingela, Vigdis, Alfhild, Gunilla, Anna, and me.

After the picnic Anna and I walked a couple of kilometres (in our stays, gowns and bonnets and everything) through the woods to a lake to take a swim.

The hair pins removed.

We also picked a few mushrooms.