onsdag 19 juli 2017

Pondering Quattrocento caps

As you saw I made a small linen cap for my working class Italian 15th century outfit, based on several paintings.

But now I am re-making a much fancier Italian 15th century gown, which needs something equally fancy to put on the head.

So I started looking at paintings from the second half of the 15th century, and came up with these other examples of caps:

Del Cossa: Triumph of Minerva. c. 1480
Several examples of white coifs tied under the chin.

Francesco del Cossa: Triumph of Venus.  c. 1480
Two red coifs tied under the chin.

An embroidered coif, Filippino Lippi

Ippolita Sforza, by Lorenzo Costa 1490.
Cap placed on the back of the head, decorated with pearls.

Neroccio de Landi, unknown woman.
She wears a cap made of the same fabric as her under gown, and edged with pearls, and with a brooch or jewel at the top front.

Carlo Crivelli: St. Ursula 1473
Like the coifs in the del Cossa paintings her cap has deep cuts at the temples. It is of the same colour, if not maybe the same fabric, as the body of her gown.

Unknown Florentine painter, ca 1460-70
Her cap appear sot be stiffer and more buliltup than the othe rcaps seen her, but has the same shape, with deep cuts over the temples. Decorated with small pearls and gold and worn with a veil hanging from it in the back.

There is also a preserved Venetian cufietta, c. 1480-1520, which has some resemblance to what we see in these image. Thoughwith out the deep cutouts in front.

There are of course other types of headwear in 15th cnetury Italy - veils, of course, but also some seriously weird "half caps", such as this:

Here the front of the coif is there, but the back has been removed and the hair hangs partly over it at the sides.
Those I definitely need to do some more thinking about.

tisdag 18 juli 2017

An Italian silk tunic and sucoat from 1338-40

I have now not only finished, but also photographed and written documentation for my mint green Italian outfit based on a painting by Bernardo Daddi.

The page for it is here.


The list of costumes that I had actually made pages for ion the left side of the blog was becoming too long and unwieldy, so I decided to organize things better. Now there are links to categories there, where you see all the costumes that I have made pages for (and some others), and can click on the images to go to their page.

Next thing I should do is to write about all the other costumes that I have ;)

ETA: I also saw this as an opportunity to add photos of costumes that I've never made pages for

onsdag 12 juli 2017

A new Italian 15th century working class outfit

Since a lot of the things I do in costume is what would be working class tasks: carrying stuff, tidying, cooking etc, I always want to have at least one working class outfit from the periods I'm making clothes from. And here is the Italian 15th century working class outfit.

I made this gown by hand last weekend, mostly during our camping event. The apron was made yesterday and the little cap today. Read more about it here.

måndag 10 juli 2017

Camping medieval style

Last weekend there was a "Medieval Day" at a (semi-)local site where there used to be a castle in the High Middle Ages. Today there is nothing left to see, but itä'a  beautiful place next to the sea, and , as it turned out, a lovely place to camp. Gotvik  came with three tents, and quite a few people who just came over the day. The latter group included my husband and my youngest daugther.

Me and hubby:

Yeah, it's this gown, which I haven't worn sien Maja was a toddler.

I had decided to camp, and shared my tent with my friend Katharina Krognos. This meant that we didn't bring the big bed, but only camping beds for us. With the help of textiles it still looked nice in the tent.

Especially with the new chest.

Some more photos from the camp.

I also started on a new dress, Italian second half of the 15th century, and it's finished now. Photos later this week, since I need to make a new apron for it.

onsdag 5 juli 2017

One clothes' chest is finished

Well, apart from the fact that the pins for the take-apart-hinges are such a close fit to the holes in the hinges that it's hard to put them in even when hinges are not attached to anything, and impossible when screwed in place.
So tomorrow I'm going to go and get some 3 inch nails to use instead. I will also drill two holes in the lid to make it easier ot pick up.
But otherwise it is finished, which is good, since I plan to use it for medieval camping this weekend at Hunehals castle ruin, on their "Medieval day".

The photos aren't as sharp as they ought to be ;)

Then next week I'll start on the next one - I don't want to have my flat filled with pieces of wood and plywood forever :)

måndag 3 juli 2017

Crazy about cotton

Today my khadi fabric arrived from India. I have been eye-ing this particular fabric on eBay for a while, since it combines two things that we know were common in the Italian cotton weaving: indigo dye and woven patterns. If it had been linen warp and cotton weft it would have been even better, since that was the most common type of cotton fabric woven in Europe in the Middle Ages.

It'a a bit bluer than the photo shows, at least on my browser. And it's everythign that I wished for; I was afraid it would be thin and flimsy, but no, it will do fine for a medieval gown.

Now to decide what to make from it: A 15th cnetury Italian high-waisted gown would look very good made from this. However, by that time the Italian cotton weaving industry was rather small, having been out-competed by the southern German fustian industry. Thought they of course still used cotton clothing in Italy. A working cless 13th or early 14th century Italian gown would, however probably be more typical.
Since I have other things to make this isn't that much of a problem though, I will consider the choice for a while. And pet the fabric (and pre-wash it).

måndag 26 juni 2017

Remaking my light green italian 15th century gown

I have now re-made the light green damask gown that I made in 2015 after falling in love with Florence, so that it fits my current size.

More photos and information about the gown here, on its page.

Post about the old version of the gown.

lördag 24 juni 2017

Midsummer in folk costume

If you have a folk costume, Midsummer eve in Sweden is the traditional day to wear it. Which meant that I spent last week taking in the bodice sothat I could wear it today ;) This one comes from
Åse and Viste, which is close to where I lived when I was younger, and I've made it myself - for more details and information on this costume, and general information about Swedish folk costumes, look here.

Iwent with my best friend, her family and her sisters and their families to a Midsummer celebration at Gunnebo House, a lovely 18th century house and gardens. There was a group showing folk dancing, which really is the one thing I don't want to miss at midsummer.

Folkdanslaget Näverluren:

I even shot a very short video (despite being a total luddite when it comes to using my cell phone)


And my best friend inger took some photos of me in my costume, before it started to rain...

And after

The last image really show how the headwear should be worn; historically the cap was always covered out of doors, to protect i from both sun and rain.But nobody does that nowadays. And it would be a waste not to show the pretty cap.

torsdag 22 juni 2017

Immediate corset crisis solved

Not that I'm going to wear 16th century clothing to an SCA event before I step down as baroness, but I have a plan for a photo session by the fake Tudor castle Tjolöholm, south of Gothenburg some day this summer. Alfhild and I should dress up in green Elizabethan dresses and look pretty together.

So I decided to try my effigy corset, which was rather tight last time I tried (and I haven't worn for years), and now it was comfortable, too comfortable - my boobs slid down :)

Fortunately I have another corset, a hand sewn version of Pfalzgräfin Dorothea von Neuburg's corset. I made it at about the same time as my hand sewn effigy corset, but never wore it, because it turned otu to be a little too tight for comfort.

Not anymore!

Image from 2007.

I may shorten it a little, which easy since the tabs aren't boned, because apparently I wasn't that good at finding my natural waist bacek then.
This goes for the green dress I planned to wear too, which isn't only too long in the waist, but also (of course) too big.

onsdag 21 juni 2017

Empire corset revisited

 Yesterday my friend Alfhild came by. She had visited another friend who wants to make both regency and Victorian clothes and was really inspired to  to make some too.
So we dug out my books, and then I got inspired to show my stuff and ended up opening boxes with costumes which hadn't been touched for years.
They are kept under our bed, and unfortunately our cat Mysko had managed to get into one of them and had puked on my 18th century shift, and an antique lace shawl. The shawl was too delicate to wash, so I just gave up and threw it in the trash. The shift will be washed next time we have the laundry room, next week, and hopefully it can be saved. But Mysko was very cheap for anyone wanting to buy him then ;)

Anyway, I dug out clothes and I tried on clothes, and to my great joy my empire corset still works, though it has to be laced wholly shut at the back. The same was the case with the smaller of my 18th century stays, though they should ideally be taken in at the waist - they're too tight at the top if I lace them shut, and too loose in the waist. I'll see if I'll do something about that, I have a partly finished robe à la francaise that I started 14 years ago, which would be fun to finish I guess.

Rickard took a photo of me in the empire corset, but I didn't get any in my 18th century stays.

The petticoat, gown, bonnet adn shawl that go with these underwear can be seen here. Unfortunately I suspect that the gown is too big, I didn't try it on, because I needed to pack away stuff for the night.

lördag 17 juni 2017

Gotvik summer picnic

Despite the weather forecasts today turned out to be a lovely sunny day, and those of us who made ti to the picnic had a really good time.

I was pretty in my green silk bliaut, which fits again.

I brought Icelandic chicken, and a salad with lettuce, spinach, rocket, green peas, broccoli and green grapes to eat.

Photos from the picninc.