The costume is based mostly on this painting from the famous Calvinist temple in Lyon, in 1565.
I already had a dress in this style and I wanted us to match. I also desperately didn't want to make paned slops, and the men in this painting seem to have pants not made from strips of fabric. It's not that I can't make paned slops; I made these for my friend Arnaut and a similar pair for my husband in 2001, based on Don Garzia de'Medici's slops in Janet Arnold's Patterns of fashion, I just don't want to make any more.
And while Arnaut's version turned out pretty nice I did have problem's with the codpiece on Rickard's version and all those panes were too much work anyway, I only had two weeks to make the whole outfit.
The doublet is made from felted wool and it's shape is based loosely on the elizabethan doublet in The Tudor tailor. With loosely I mean that I looked at the shape of the pattern pieces in the book when I drafted my own pattern to fit Rickard's measurements. I never enlarge patterns for any period clothing, I just use them as guides to the general shape.
Under the wool layer, which is pinked all over with ca 1 inch long slits, there is gold coloured rayon satin, probably from the 1930s or 40s. This is barely visible in the photos, but is more noticeable when he moves.
'The doublet is then lined with a natural coloured slubby silk, which isn't very period, but the colour looked good, I wanted to use something I already had, and anyway it's the inside!
The buttonholes are hand made with buttonhole silk.
The slops, pants, or whatever you call them, are made from a medium thin, slightly fulled wool twill and they are lined with linen. As said above they are made in one piece (or rather, two pieces, one for each leg).
I looked at all the pants of this type in Patterns of fashion to make the pattern. Even though they are from around 1600 I thought they would give some guidance to the shape. The codpiece is made from a pattern in the Tudor tailor and finally I have made a codpiece that looks like it should!
Actually it was mostly a question of how far up on the front it should be placed, Rickard has a long torso and thus a long crotch-to-waist measurement so adapting patterns can be tricky. But I'm very happy with these.
The linen lining legs are a little shorter than the wool, which adds some of the puffiness. The legs are box pleated to leg bands, in some places I hade to have double box pleats to fit all the fabric to the leg band. This made the leg bands a little tighter than planned, since that much fabric takes place, but fortunately not too tight.
The pants are also box pleated to a waist band. I then sewed 14 pairs of eyelets with buttonhole silk, for lacing the slops to the doublet. There are also holes that lace the codpiece to the pants.
All points (lacing cords) are made from silk yarn with fingerloop braiding, but only those for the codpiece and the one that is visible at the bottom of the doublet have brass points.
The hat is made from buckram covered with cotton velvet which is pleated to shape it over the hat. Again it is basically made after the patterns in Patterns of fashion and The Tudor tailor. The main difference from the latter is that it is made from home made buckram, made from linen fabric and flour glue.
Wiring the brim
The hat band is silk habotai and it's berry red, not pink.
Under this he is wearing a linen shirt that I made back in 2001, and just because I think the blackwork embroidery looks nice, I'll show you a picture from when I'm ironing it.
The shoes are ordinary chinese slippers covered with wool fabric. We didn't have the time to make real shoes and none of us know how to make renaissance shoes, which are sewn in a different way than the medieval turnshoes we've made before. So I took a pair of "kung-fu slippers" as they are known here and covered them with red felted wool - after all: fabric shoes are well known from the period, though they had leather soles and not plastic ;).
Almost all 16th century pictures I've seen of men show shoes and stockings in the same colour as the slops, so I had to get red stockings. Of course, the red in the slops, shoes and stockings are slightly different, but it is not easy to find over the knee socks in men's sizes so I'm happy just to have red!
At least there isn't a screaming difference. The stockings are from Jas. Townsend.
My husband usually wears 13th or 14th century clothing when we go to events; it'a period I do much myself and which is very popular in our local group. It is also very comfortable, something he, like most men I know, values highly. But this outfit also passed the "comfort test" so I would say it's a a double winner: he thinks it's comfortable and I think he looks damn good in it.
Matching outfits, though not taken at the same time:
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