Finished folk costume bodice

 The new folk costume bodice is finished.

Like my other folk costume bodices it is made from a hand woven half wool (cotton warp, ought to be linen, but you can't get that these days)

In the second photo I have pulled up the kerchief to show the embroidery at the back.

Making a new folk costume bodice

 Unfortunately both bodices that I made for my folk costume have shrunk in the closet ;)

This summer I inserted panels at the side of my newest bodice, to be able to wear it for midsummer. But since most of my weight is gained in front this isn't optimal. But it was wearable

I am also wearing a new silk kerchief, and a new reproduction cotton print apron. Both these were found at charity shops. I have also made a new linsey wolsey skirt in green, which is  avery popular colour in theprobate inventories from this time and place that I have been working on the last two years.

Anyway, while I can wear the dark blue bodice there is no way I can fit into my old checked one. And I like the checked ones better.

The original for my old checked bodice, called "Viste"

Since the fabric for both bodices and skirta have to be hand woven, and I don't weave, I am lucky that there is some of the  fabric for the other variant of the checked bodice than the one that I already have available.

This one I can buy fabric for, it is the bodice variant called "Åse"

When I did my first bodice I mainly enlarged the original. Now I have both changed shape and become better at pattern making, so for the new one I will adapt it more to my large bust. The other one worked, and looked good, but since my weight gain isn't symmetrical it will look better if I add more in the front.

So after my first preliminary mock-up from a sturdy polycotton twill. Then I also made a wearable mock-up, intended to be worn as an example of popular dress in the period, if not part of the actual costume. For this I used a hand woven half linen, and a piece of rust coloured wool twill, both thrifted.

I sewed most of it on machine, though none is visible on either outside or inside now that it is finished. 

There are some smaller things that I will change when I make the real thing, but I am happy enough to use it as a pattern for the new bodice. 

The "real" one will be made from much stiffer fabric, and have more boning - the embroiderycontaisn boning channels.

The Viste bodice was lined with unbleached linen, but the Åse one is lined with a striped fabric. I am not going to look around for hand woven linen for this, but will use a thrifted striped cotton.

To make the birght colours a little duller I soaked the cotton fabric over night in strong tea. Not as dark as the original, which had black as groudn colour, but good enough for me.

I have cut out the lining now, so that I can place the pieces on the hand wocen fabric on Wednesday when I go to Nossebro and will be able to buy tthe fabric.

Image sources for matching tunic, surcoat and cloak

 While I have written about the written sources for matching sets of cloting (see previous post) I haven't relly shown any period art showing them.

Marching tunic/cotte/kirtle and surcoat are easy to find, especially in Italian 13th and early 14th century sources, but with a matching cloak too is a little more complicated. One reason for this is that it became less common to depict people wearing cloaks as teh 14th century progressed. While written sources show that they were still in use, in art they more and more became shown as ceremonial garments.In other cases you just don't see if the woman is wearing both a cotte and a surcoat.

In some of these you have to really look closely to see the cloak, since it appears to fastened at the edge of the shoulders.

This is not a reasearch post, just a few pictures that I have. When the whole set is finished there will be proper documentation.

Giotto di Bondone: Scrovegni Chapel 1304-1306

Pietro Lorenzetto: St. Catherine and St. Agatha c 1315. Only St. Catherine has the full combination, but St. Agatha has some rather impressive buttons.

Simone Martini: St. Elisabeth and St. Margaret 1318

Simone Martini: Maestà 1315-16

St. Ursula's companions in the church of San Orsola, Vigo de Cadore 

A couple of Virtues, by Taddeo Gaddi 1328-30

And a Madonna, by Taddeo Gaddi, from 1334. Here the Madonna has pulled her cloak over her head, something that might have been done in real life, especially when it rained, but above all was a convention in depictions of the Madonna.

Bernardo Daddi: St. Margaret and St. Agnes ca 1337-39

Bernardo Daddi: St Catherine.

Bernardo Daddi: St Catherine 1345-50

Ambrogio Lorenzetti: Maestà 1335-38. Note the fichets (pocket slits) on the surcoat.

Maso di Banco. Coronation of the Virgin 1335-40

Antother Coronation of the Virgin by Maso di Banco

Italian Painter c. 1365

Spinello Aretino: St Catherine, frescoes in the Bagno a Ripoli, second half of the 14th century

The further tale of the (13th-14th century) mantle

Continued from this post: The tale of the Mantle four years later.

So, I finished the actual mantle in the end of last year. But I decided that I wanted a whole set of clothes from this silk taffeta. While people were exceedingly fond of contrasting colours in the Middle Ages, coordinated sets were also common. I have written about it here and here, dsicussing the phenomenon in gerneal, and the trosseau of Isabella de Bruce from 1293. Matching cottes, surcoats and cloaks are also commonly seen in early and mid. 14th century art.

I will write much more about the set, the construction, the inspiration etc when it isall finished. Right now I just wanted to show the cloak and the cotte. And the beginning of the surcoat.

It is extremely hard to see the vines on the cloak in photos, you will just have to believe me, see it in person, or wait for summer and better light. Or possibly make it out in this detail shot.

Some more photos. The cloak is lined in a shot blue/green silk taffeta. And yes, I wanted to look like a fairy tale queen. I have now had the same really bad cold for 5 months, my arthritis is killing me and judging from the pain I have an ulcer again. So I deserve dressing up as a beautiful queen.

The fastenings

I am currently working on the surcoat, which will be split at the sides, like so many Italian surcoats from this period. It will have flowers all over, and like the cotte it will have a smaller version of the front borders from the cloak at the cuffs, but also around the neck and along the side slits.

Updated list of secondhand shops in, and around, Gothenburg, from an SCA point of view

 So, I have updated my list of secondhand shops that might be useful for people doing the SCA, re-enactment or other types of historical costuming. or just textile crafting in general. I makemost of my everyday clothes from bedsheets and other textiles from charity shops.

Loppisar/Flea markets, from an SCA perspective
Uppdaterad/updated February 2024

Alla säljer kläder, men eftersom det inte är fokus, så tar jag inte upp det i beskrivningen.

All of these sell clothing, but since that isn’t the focus in this list that won’t be mentioned in the descriptions.

Hisingen:
Lindra Second Hand Wieselgrensplatsen
Wieselgrensplatsen 4, samma hus som/ the same house as Coop. Hållplats/Tram stop Wieselgrensplatsen
Öppet/open tisdag till fredag/Tuesday-Friday 11-18 + lördag/Saturday 11-15
Varierat utbud, inte jättedyrt, men inte heller jättebilligt. Här kan man t ex hitta husgeråd och sybehör. Även en del textilier som kan passa.

Varied –not very expensive, but not very cheap either. Here you can find house hold goods and sewing notions, as well as some fabrics/curtains/bed sheets that can be used

Reningsborg Wieselgren

Wieselgrensplatsen 24 Hållplats/Tram stop Wieselgrensplatsen
hemsida/web site: https://reningsborg.se/second-hand/butik-wieselgrensplatsen/
öppet/Open tis-tors/Tue-Thu 12-17, lördag/Saturday 11-15

En av fyra Reningsborg i Göteborgsområdet, alla bra/One of four Reningsborg in/around Göteborg, all good.

Bra utbud på glas, keramik, trä och andra husgeråd. Möbler, inte så mycket textil.

A good selection of glass, ceramics, wood, and other household goods. Furniture. Not so much textiles.  

Björkåsecondhand, Backaplan
Ångpannegatan 5, 417 05 Göteborg hållplats/tram stop Hjalmar Brantingsplatsen
hemsida/web site https://bjorkafrihet.se/oppettider-bjorkafrihet-second-hand-butiker/
Öppet/Open Mån-Fre/Mon-Fri 10-19, lördag/Saturday 11-17, söndag/Sunday 11-16

 Glas, keramik och textilier är i källaren. Har ofta ett bra bokutbud, där man ibland kan hitta böcker om medeltida konst, hantverk etc.

Glass, pottery and textiles are in the basement. They generally have a good assortment of books, where you sometimes can find books about medieval art, about crafts etc.

 

PMU Second hand Hisings Kärra
Tagenevägen 55, hållplats/bus stop Kärraporten
Hemsida/web page: https://pmu.se/stores/hisingskarra/
öppet/Open: Tisdag/Tuesday-Torsdag/Thursday 12-18, Lördag/Saturday 10-14

Bra priser. Ofta bra utbud på det textila området: dukar, linnehanddukar, band, broderigarn etc. Också mycket glas, keramik etc.

Good prices. Often a good selection of textiles: table cloths, linen tea towels, sewing notions, embroidery yarn etc. Good for glass, and pottery

 

Olskroken, Gamlestaden och Kortedala

Erikshjälpen Kortedala
Förstamajgatan 4, hållplats/tram stop Kortedala torg
hemsida/web site: https://erikshjalpen.se/store/kortedala-goteborg/
Ofta bra utbud på det textila området: dukar, linnehanddukar, band, broderigarn etc. Också mycket glas, keramik etc.

Often a good selection of textiles: table cloths, linen tea towels, sewing notions, embroidery yarn etc. Good for glass, and pottery

Inte mycket böcker, men faktahyllan är ofta bra
Not many books, but you can find things about history and craft etc

Öppet/open  Måndag/Monday 12- 16, tisdag/Tuesday 12-18, onsdag/Wednesday 12-16, Torsdag/Thursday 12-18, lördag/Saturday 10-15

 

Holmens marknad
Ryttmästaregatan 3, hållplats/tram stop SKF eller/or Belleveue.
hemida/web site https://www.holmensmarknad.se/butiken/

Öppet alla dagar/Open all days 10-18

Det här är inte en välgörenhetssecondhand utan vinstdrivande. Deras varor kommer inte från donationer utan från dödsbon som de köper upp. Det ger ett lite annorlunda utbud, och annorlunda priser. Men man kan hitta saker som man sällan hittar på andra loppisar, jag köpte tex min hopfällbara renässansstol där. Möbler, lite textilier, glas, keramik, kuriosa

This is not a charity shop, but a company that buys estates from deceased persons. More expensive usually than charity shops, but you can find stuff you don’t find in other second hand shops. Furniture, glass, pottery, some textiles

Stadsmissionen second hand Bellevue
Korpralsgatan 1, hållplats/tram stop Bellevue
hemsida/web site: https://www.stadsmissionen.org/second-hand/butiker/
Öppet/open Måndag-fredag: 10-18, Lördag-söndag/Sat-Sun: 10-16

En del glas, keramik, trä och andra husgeråd. Textilier i källaren. Okej priser.

Some glass, ceramics, wood, and other household goods. Textiles in the basement. Okay prizes.

 

Röda Korset Second Hand Olskroken
Hökegatan 32, hållplats/tram stop Olskroken eller/or Redbergsplatsen
Open tis-fre/Tue-Fri 12-18, lördag/Saturday 12-16
Hyfsade priser, litet utbud av annat än kläder, men kan vara värt att titta efter husgeråd och dukar t ex.

Okay prizes, small-ish selection of other things than clothing, but it is worth looking for households goods, table cloths etc.

 

Myrorna Olskroken
Redbergsvägen 11 A, hållplats Olskroken
Öppet mån-Fre 10-18, lördag 10-16
Liten butik, och Myrorna ligger i den övre prisklassen när det gäller välgörenhetsloppisar, men man kan hitta husgeråd och dukar där i alla fall.

Small shop, mostly clothing, and Myrorna are among the more expensive charity shops. Still, you can find some household goods, and textiles.

 

Högsbo och Frölunda

Erikshjälpen Frölunda
Victor Hasselblads gata 11, hållplats/bus stop Amalia Jönssons Gata
hemsida/web site: https://erikshjalpen.se/store/vastra-frolunda-goteborg/
Det ligger alltså i Högsbo och inte i Frölunda/Despite the name it is located in Högsbo, not in Frölunda
Öppet mån -tors/Mon-Thu 12-18,  lör/Sat 11-16
Rätt mycket glas, keramik och textilier. Stor butik med rätt mycket möbler, om än inte (vanligen) medeltida sådana.

Reasonably good selection of glass, pottery and textiles. Large shop with lots of furniture (though, mostly, not medieval style)

Reningsborg second hand Frölunda
Reningsverksgatan 1, hållplats/bus stop Ängås buss 92 eller 93 från Frölunda Torg.
Man kan också gå från Frölunda torg. You can also walk 15 min from Frölunda Torg.
hemsida/web site: https://reningsborg.se/second-hand/butik-frolunda/
Öppet/open onsdag/Wednesday 15 – 19, lördag 10-14
En favorit, för sin stora textilavdelning, men har också husgeråd, möbler, och cyklar. Bra priser.
A favourite, good on textiles, but also has glass, pottery, wooden, and metal household goods, furniture, and bikes. Good prizes.

Stadsmissionen Frölunda
Lergöksgatan 4, hållplats/tram or bus stop Frölunda torg or/eller Smyckegatan (buss50)
Hemsida/web site: https://www.stadsmissionen.org/second-hand/butiker/
Öppet/open måndag-fredag/mon-Fri 10-18, lördag-söndag/Sat-Sun 10-16

Ganska liten, men man kan göra fynd av textilier eller husgeråd.
Smallish, but finds of textile good and household items can be made.

Centrum, Linné, Masthugget och Majorna

Erikshjälpen Roselundsgatan
Rosenlundsgatan 8
hemsida/web site https://erikshjalpen.se/store/goteborg-rosenlundsgatan/
Öppet/Open mån-Fre/Mon-Fri 11-18, Lör-Sön/Sat-Sun 11-16

Lite dyrare än övriga Erikshjälpenbutiker. Mest kläder, men också en del glas, keramik och textilier.

More expensive than the other Erikshjälpen shops. Mostly clothes, but also some glass, pottery and textiles.

 

Stadsmissionen Stigberget
Amerikagatan 4, hållplats/tram stop Stigbergstorget
hemsida/web site: https://www.stadsmissionen.org/second-hand/butiker/
Öppet/open Måndag-fredag/Mon-Fri 10-18, Lördag-Söndag/Sat-Sun  10-16

Ganska liten butik men man kan göra fynd inom husgeråd och textil. Generellt sett bra priser.

Smallish, but finds of textile good and household items can be made. Generally good prizes.

Myrorna Järntorget
Järntorgsgatan 10, hållplats/tram stop Järntorget

Hemsida/web site: https://www.myrorna.se/butiker/goteborg/goteborg-jarntorget/
Öppet/Open mån-fre/Mon-Fri 10-19, lör/Sat 11-17, sön/Sun 12-16
Myrorna ligger som sagt den övre prisklassen när det gäller välgörenhetsloppisar. Det är en stor butik där man kan hitta både textil och husgeråd på bottenplan och möbler, kläder mm på de andra våningarna.

As stated before, Myrorna, belongs to the more expensive charity shops. However, it’s a big store in several floors. Textiles and household goods are on the entrance floor, and clothing, furniture and books on the upper floors.

 

Saronkyrkans second hand
Brunnsgatan 5, hållplats/tram stop Brunnsgatan
hemsida/web site: https://saronsecondhand.se/
Öppet/Open  tis/Tue 13-16, to/Thu 14-18, lör/sat 10-15
Bra priser och emellanåt kan man hitta keramik, trä, glas och textilier. De har möbler.
Good prizes, and you can sometimes find good pottery, wood objects, glass, and textiles. They have furniture.

 

Röda Korset Masthugget
Första Långgatan 28 C, Hållplats/tram stop Masthuggstorget
hemsida/web site: https://www.rodakorset.se/vad-vi-gor/second-hand/butiker/roda-korset-second-hand-goteborg-forsta-langgatan/
Öppet/Open tors-fre/Thu-Fri 11.00-18.00 Lör/Sat 11.00-14.00
Mest kläder.
Mostly clothing

Angered och Alelyckan

Lindra second hand Gårdsten
Salviagatan 1, hållplats/bus stop Salviagatan
hemsida/web site: http://lindra.se/butikerna/
Öppet tis-fre 11-18, lör 11-15
Mycket varierat vad de har inne, men fynd kan göras inom husgeråd och textilier. De har även möbler. Bra priser
Great variation in what they have at different times, but finds can be made among textiles and household goods. They also have furniture. Good prizes generally.

 

Reningsborg second hand Angered
Angeredsvinkeln 9, hållplats/tram stop Angereds centrum, eller/or Angeredsvinkeln (buss 40 eller 77) om man vill komma närmare/if you want to get closer.

Hemsida/web site: https://reningsborg.se/second-hand/butik-angered/
Öppet/Open ons/Wednesday 11-16, lör/Sat 10-14

En annan favorit. Reningsborgs största butik, ca 10 minuters promenad från Angereds centrum. Mycket möbler och husgeråd. Finns också textilier och sybehör. Bra priser.

Another favourite. Reningsborg’s largest store. C. 10 minutes’ walk from Angered centrum. Lots of furniture, and household goods, but also textiles and sewing notions. Good prizes.

 

Stadsmissionens second hand Angereds centrum
Inne i gallerian/Located inside the shopping mall  Angered centrum hållplats/tram stop Angered Centrum

Hemsida/web site: https://www.stadsmissionen.org/second-hand/butiker/
Textiler (och kläder) säljs på kilopris, har hittat lakan till toiler och en del linnetyg där. Har också en liten husgerådsavdelning, men mest kläder.

Textiles (and clothing) is sold according to weight. I have found some bed sheets for toiles/mock-ups thee, and some linen fabric. A small section with household goods, but mostly clothing.

 

Stadsmissionens second hand, Kretsloppsparken, Alelyckan
Lärjeågatan 12, hållplats/bus stop Vattenverket, med buss 78.
Öppet/Open tis-fre/Tue-Fri 10-18, lö-sön/Sat-Sun 10-16
Stadsmissionens största butik ligger vid Alelyckan, ”nedanför” Kortedala, nära rv 45.  Mycket husgeråd, en del textilier och möbler. Bra priser.

This is Stadsmissionen’s largest shop, located in an industrial are close to the road 45 towards Trollhättan.. Lots of household goods, and some textiles, and furniture.  Good prizes.

 

Mölndal
Pingstkyrkans second hand Mölndal
Södra Ågatan 10, Mölndal, hållplats/tram stop Mölndals sjukhus
hemsida/web site: https://molndal.pingst.se/second-hand/om-butiken/
Öppet/Open ons/Wed 11-18, lör/Sat11-14
Favoriten nummer ett. Bra priser och förhållandevis mycket och bra textil, glas och keramik. Mycket möbler.

My absolute favourite. Good prizes, and comparably much textiles, sewing/embroidery/knitting material, glass, and pottery. Large selection of furniture.

 

Returum, Mölndals Kvarnby
Götaforsliden 17, Mölndal, hållplats/bus stop Mölndals Stadsmuseum
hemsida/web site: https://returum.wordpress.com/
Öppet/open ons-fre/Wed-Fri 11-17, lör-sön/Sat-Sun 10-16
Lite blandat, men man kan hitta trä, glas och keramik till bra priser.

Mixed, but you can find household goods in wood, pottery and glass for good prizes.

Partille
Reningsborgs second hand Partille
Laxfiskevägen 4a, Partille, tåg till Partille station elle rbuss till Partille Centrum, gå ca 1km, eller buss till Partille Kulturrum, ca 8 min promenad, eller Lexby, ca 3 min promenad.

Train to Partille Station, bus to Partille Centrum walk c. 1 km, or bus to Partille Kulturrum, walk c. 8 min, or bus to Lexby, walk c. 3 min.

Hemsida/web site https://reningsborg.se/second-hand/butik-partille/
Öppet/open tis, tors/Tue, Thue 11-15, lördag/Sat 10-14

Bra utbud på glas, keramik, trä och andra husgeråd. Mindre textil. Bra priser.

Good selection of glass, pottery, wood vessels and other households goods, smaller selection of textiles. Good prizes.

 

Östhjälpen second hand Jonsered
Jons väg 19, Jonsered, tåg till Jonsered, sen c. 10 minuter promeand/ train to Jonsered, then walk c. 10 minutes.
hemsida/web site: https://www.osthjalpen.se/

Öppet/open Ons/Wed -14-17, Lör/Sat 10-13

Stor butik i två hus. Möbler och lite blandade träsaker, samt sportutrustning, i ett hus och resten i ett annat. Bra husgeråds- och textilavdelning. Bra priser.

Large shop in two buildings. Furniture and some mixed wooden things, plus sports equipment in one, the rest in the other. Good selection of household goods and textiles. Good prizes

 

Kungälv

Nu rör vi oss utanför kollektivtrafik zon A  Moving outside of public transport zone A, into zone B.

Heart Second hand

Filaregatan 1, Kungälv, hållplats/bus stop Tvetgatan

Hemsida/web site: https://heartofevangelism.com/heart-second-hand/

Öppet/Open Tis/Tue 15-18, Lör/Sat 10-14

Jättestor butik med mycket möbler, husgeråd och stor textilavdelning. Bra priser.

Large shop with lots of furniture, household goods, and a large textile section. Good prizes.

 

Ungdomsidrottens sceondhand i Kungälv

Byggmästergatan 8, hållplats/bus stop Kungälvs Resecentrum, gå/walk 1,6 km.

Hemsida/web site: https://www.laget.se/IdrottensSecondHand

Jättestor butik med möbler, stor husgeråds och textilavdelning. Bra priser.

Large shop with lots of furniture, and large sections with household goods, and textiles. Good prizes.

 

 

Listening to me giving an overview of medieval fashion

 If you want to hear and see me give a class on the general deveopment of medieval dress, now is your chance!

This weekend the Kingdom of Drachenwald's Online University takes place. it is totally free, but you need to register - it is easy and done here: Registration link

There are lots of other very interesting talks too - check the schedule , but mine is on Sunday the 28th at 13.30 CET (Stockholm/Paris).

Basically it is the same class that I teach at my fashion history courses at Gothenburg University, but in English. It will give an overview and is excellent if you are somewhat new to making medieval clothing and don't know what you want to make, or if you've only done one period and want to try something new.

The tale of the mantle - four years later

 In July 2019 I started on an embroidered silk cloak, inspired by a cloak described the 13th century  Möttuls saga. Möttuls saga is an Old Norse text which was probably based on the Old French Le Cort Mantel, and was adapted into Old Norse  by a  cleric known as Brother Robert, probably of Anglo-Norman origin, for King Haakon IV of Norway (1217–1263). I had made a presentation about clothing in a collection of Norwegian translations of courtly romances for Leeds medieval congress in 2019.

You can read more about the inspiration, the sources, etc in a blog post that I made then. 

Well, in November 2019 I hit total burnout, in fact I am still not well enough to work more than 25%, and while I have made lots of clothing since 2021, when I finally was able to sew again, the cloak was lying there, packed away in a fabric bag.

My friend Anna kept reminding me of it, whenever I complained that I didn't have any hand sewing for when we hung out watching historical costume movies/series together. But it was The Lazy Reenactor Girl's  30 days of A&S (Arts&Sciences) challenge in September this year that actually made me pick it up again.

I hade made around 90 centimeres on the front border when I put it away, and now I have embroidered another 240 cm. And some flowers. 

Since the cloaks is described as being embroidered all over with flowers and leaves, I have quite a lot of embroidery left to do. I'm startinf with the flowers spaced evenly over the whole cloak, and then I will have to figure out the foliage.I am using "gold" thread, with a strip of metal wound around a yellow thread, which I am couching down with yellow silk, green silk embroidery floss, and white sewing silk.