söndag 26 april 2015

More German/Swedish 16th century

Some years ago I got a semi-circular piece of teal damask, intended to be a cloak once upon a time, my friend Caroline. While I love semicircular cloaks and want a fancy one the pattern wasn't right for the period so I decided to make something else instead.

It wasn't enough to make a gown, no matter how much I'd love to have a gown in teal damask, so I came up with the idea to make one of those short, wide jackets you see both in German and Scandinavan art from the second half of the 16th century. I don't know what they're called in English, but this is how they look.

 From Jost Amman's Frauen Trachtenbuch, printed in 1586. However, many of the images look very much like Han's Weigel's Habitvs Præcipvorvm Popvlorvm, Tam Virorvm Qvam fœminarum Singulari arte depicti from 1577, so the style could probably be dated to the 1570s, at least.

I will need to make a new gown to wear with it, because I have become too fat for all my 16th century gowns, except my blue one, and the teal and the bright blue will really clash.

I am trying to lose weight, I will probably wait a little while before making a new, fancy gown in some other colour, but the jacket I can wear no matter what size I am, and since I want to sew I will start with that.

Llooking through several Trachtenbücher I have found examples with short sleeves and with long sleeves, with fur lining and with fabric lining. Mine will be lined with pale pinkish beige silk, since fake fur would make it too stiff for my taste.  It will have long sleeves, but, as you see on the wood cuts above, that doesn't mean that you actually have your arms in them :).

The back piece.

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