onsdag 28 mars 2018

My next (?) project

This may not be my next project, since there's always the possibility that I'll make something quickly for Double Wars for instance. But it is the project that inspires me and fuels my clothing research right now.

This is a leaf from a treatise on vices, owned/comissioned by the Cocharelli family in Genoa c. 1330-1340. This particular leaf is at the Cleveland Museum of Art (link to the manuscript leaf and a high resolution view of the illustration above). A few other pages have been preserved and most of them are at the British Library (link).

The motif is queen Accidia, presonofying Maleancholy, who can't even be enthusiastic over board games :)
The text at the Cleveleand museum of Art stresses Islamic influences in the textiles, and in the jeweled headdresses of all women except Accidia. They do not mention the dress of the women as specifically ifluenced by Islamic culture, which is wise, since both the type of garments worn together and the way thatthey are decorated are found in many images from late 13th to mid- 14th century Italy.

I have already written about Italian gowns with high waists, belted and with seams (as well as making one of silk and one of cotton).
Blog post 1.
Blog post 2.
Silk gown
Cotton gown

So high waist seams are definitely something seen in Italy at this time.

The placement on the trim of the two non-striped highwaisted gowns is alos rather common, here are just a few examples:

The Tolentino basilica

The white gown is also split down in front, as the gowns in the Cocharelli treatise.

While the woman to the right below has a gown that is split at the sides.

I have (of course) also written a blog post about split overgowns in the late 13th- early 14th century, it's here.

The fresco San Zeno in Verona which was the inspiration for my teal silk gown, also has decorations which are similar to the one sin the illustration at the top of this post. And, of course, the high waist seam.

Ambrogio Lorenzettis painting of the bad and good judgement shows a woman in a dress with the same trim placement as on the Cocharelli treatise, almost like a yoke.

St.Ursula, from Chiesa di St. Orsola in i Vigo de Cadore in the Veneto.

As for overgowns split both at the sides and in front (and possibly in the back), as the woman in the mi-parti outfit has, there are examples of this too, like this: Giovanni Baronzio 1325-1350, The Life of St. Columba

As for the headdresses beign Islamic inspired I don't knwo enough about Islamic dress to say anythign baout it, but one can note that wearing your coronet/crown tilted back is not that uncommon in 14th century Italian art.The added jeweled band seems a little odd though.

This of course needs to be examined further.

But if anything it is queen Accidia that looks... - almost French, rather than Italian.

I haven't yet made up my mind which of the versions that I want to make. The mi-parti one is cool, teh white unusual, but the striped ones are more insane, and I tend to go for that.

Inga kommentarer:

Skicka en kommentar