onsdag 19 juli 2017

Pondering Quattrocento caps

As you saw I made a small linen cap for my working class Italian 15th century outfit, based on several paintings.

But now I am re-making a much fancier Italian 15th century gown, which needs something equally fancy to put on the head.

So I started looking at paintings from the second half of the 15th century, and came up with these other examples of caps:

Del Cossa: Triumph of Minerva. c. 1480
Several examples of white coifs tied under the chin.

Francesco del Cossa: Triumph of Venus.  c. 1480
Two red coifs tied under the chin.

An embroidered coif, Filippino Lippi

Ippolita Sforza, by Lorenzo Costa 1490.
Cap placed on the back of the head, decorated with pearls.

Neroccio de Landi, unknown woman.
She wears a cap made of the same fabric as her under gown, and edged with pearls, and with a brooch or jewel at the top front.

Carlo Crivelli: St. Ursula 1473
Like the coifs in the del Cossa paintings her cap has deep cuts at the temples. It is of the same colour, if not maybe the same fabric, as the body of her gown.

Piero della Francesca, ca 1460-70
Her cap appears to be stiffer and more built up than the other caps seen here, but has the same shape, with deep cuts over the temples. Decorated with small pearls and gold and worn with a veil hanging from it in the back.

There is also a preserved Venetian cufietta, c. 1480-1520, which has some resemblance to what we see in these image. Thoughwith out the deep cutouts in front.

There are of course other types of headwear in 15th century Italy - veils, of course, but also some seriously weird "half caps", such as this:

Here the front of the coif is there, but the back has been removed and the hair hangs partly over it at the sides.
Those I definitely need to do some more thinking about.

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