måndag 7 november 2016

On women's headwear in Italy ca 1300-1350

As a married woman nearing my fifties I of course had to wear some kind of veil or other headwear. There are many lovely ways to wear the hair in Italian pintings from the period, but since we have no evidence that the bareheaded women are married, and quite a lot of them are clearly young maidens, I will assume that they, like in the rest of Europe, reserved uncovered hair for the unmarried.
However, the head covering was sometimes minimal and they were very fond of sheer veils and/or wrappings. Thus my veil, which I wrapped double around my hair, and chinstrap in the photo above are made of very thin silk.

But, this is not abou tmy first, quick try to make Italian headwear, but about period images, so, here we go:

Nice striped veils - end of 13th or beginning of the 14th century.
Gratianus' Decretum,  Bologna.

Simone Martini 1328, Siena. She has wrapped her rolled up hair in a piece of fabric and put a veil on top, which basically is the look I was aiming for, or a variation of it.

I need to make a much longer thin strip of silk for this look. Actually, I am not sure this was a married woman's look, but I'm hoping :)
British Library Royal 6 E IX Regia Carmina - Address in verse to Robert of Anjou, King of Naples, from the town of Prato in Tuscany. 1335 -1340

Same manuscript, wimple and hood, in the bottom left corner.

This is one of my favourite manuscript, which I plan to make many outfits from, I've even made a scroll based on it:

But, back to the veils and wraps:

This looks more like it does north of the Alps. Buonamico Buffalmacco, Triumph of Death. Pisa 1336-1340 (Some bycockets for Charlotte)

Without veils and wimple, probably an unmarried woman, but with a bycocket: Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Allegory of Good and Bad Judgement, Siena 1344

Another Lorenzetti, look at the woman to the right with taped hair and a very sheer veil over it.

This one has a great variety of headwear, the more covered versions reserved for widows and/or older women. Bernardo Daddi, Madonna della misericordia, Florence 1342-43

Giotto di Bondoni Capela Scrovegni, Pádua 1304-1306

Her hair is covered by a kerchief or possibly a cap, though judging by other Italian art of the period, it's most likely the former, which is very common.

Seriously weird headwear here, a sheer pillbox cap?

More Giotto,  ca 1334, wimple, wrapped hair rolled at the neck, and veil. Yes, it's Mary, but you find this headwear style on "normal" women too in art of the period. The same gos for her style of dress. The fact that she's wearign the married woman's headwear actually shows the more realistic approach in early renaissance art compared to the gothic painting north of the Alps, where Mary usually is depicted with loose hair and a very stylized loose, flowing gown.

Jacopo del Casentini (attributed) ca 1340, same style as above.

And again, Maso di Banco c 1335.1350. This time the wimple is tighter and the fabrics are more sheer.

More Maso di Banco, the woman to ther right has a wimple and veil. She also has a band tight around her forehead. Santa Croce, Florence 135-1340

In these, by Taddeo Gaddi in Santa Corce in Florence, from 1328, you really see the rolled, or braided hair with  a piece of fabric wrapped over it. You also get to see that band wrappe dover teh forehad and under the chin. I haven't made out exactly how to wrap this yet, but I'm working on it.

More Gaddi, - look at that woman to the right. And the pleated strip of fabric hanging down, you see the same in the painting by Bernardo Daddi above.

And I guess you could always add unicorn horns? Or possibly this is the top of the braids being wrapped, if you have your hair like this attendant in the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries.

Actually I like the "I put a handkerchief on top of my head"-look best in this image.

More Gaddi, triptych from 1334, briaded hair and a sheer veil over it.

And a virtue (Temperance) with a nice combo of veil and a strip of sheer fabric around the forehead and chin.

Variation with just a sheer strip o ffabric around the chin and forehead, fresco from San Zeno in Verona.

Pseudo Jacopino ca 1330, detail, again showing that band across the forehead.

Vitale da Bologna, Madonna dei Denti 1345. Very sheer wimple and a sheer veil drawn over the forehead. This is a rather common thing which I plan to  wear as soon as I get it right.

Simone Martini (before 1344), lovely gold striped wimple and sheer veil with gold decorations. And a circlet with pearls and stones.

So, now I'm going to sit down and hem a long strip of sheer silk, which is the only component I haven't made yet.

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